Wednesday, April 28, 2010

My boat is getting water in the oil its a 1987 4 winns with 3.7 liter with closed cooling system?

could be several things, block, head, head gasket. i hope you havent run it much. get it to a shop.My boat is getting water in the oil its a 1987 4 winns with 3.7 liter with closed cooling system?
flapper check valve on exhaust is either stuck open or missing,or oil cooler is leakingMy boat is getting water in the oil its a 1987 4 winns with 3.7 liter with closed cooling system?
you have a bad seal there is 2 of them behind the impeller thats contained in the same cover for the timeing chain
Sounds like blown head gasket.
Head gasket or cracked head.
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  • My 1993 ThunderbirdSC blew its head gasket,it was cool as it had just driven a half mile .aand had the oil cha

    my 1993 thunderbird Super charger is in good shape with leather seats,power sunroof,etclittle rust,I understand that this car is becoming a collectors car ,so it is probably worth fixing the blown head gasket.My 1993 ThunderbirdSC blew its head gasket,it was cool as it had just driven a half mile .aand had the oil cha
    I had a 89 SC and I used sodium silicate to plug mine, it's really hard to fix because of the aluminum heads, you may have to replace them, that's why I chose the water glass treatment :)





    if you let the antifreeze get old, the water will get electrolysis and eat out the headsMy 1993 ThunderbirdSC blew its head gasket,it was cool as it had just driven a half mile .aand had the oil cha
    my guess is that the car overheated recently. maybe the temperature gauge doesnt work as with my 92 tbird. the cooling system must be fixed if faulty, and compression checks after gasket is replaced must be done to ensure no cracked block. if head got warped , it may hv to be machined


    the fix may be as simple as a new water pump or fan belt, and a new head gasket.
    I am sorry about your car. My advice is that you look at the headgasket problem as one that has been slowly getting worse. Like you said, you only drove half a mile so the head gasket was probably deteriorating long before that. If you aren't doing the labor yourself then look into the cost of a used engine. When they pull the cylinder heads on your car they may see more damage, or maybe consider getting rebuilt cylinder heads. If you like the car then don't be afraid to keep it.
    It will be another 20 years or so before these become serious collectors items if they ever do. They are still dropping in value at this point.





    It is HIGHLY unlikely that you will recoup the cost of the repair if you decide to sell the car, unless you can do the work yourself.
    If this vehicle has the 3.8L V-6 it is a common problem to blow the head gasket especially in the engines manufactored between 1988 and 1996, you should check with Ford, there was a TSB pertaining to that problem in certain applications, working at the Ford garage I must have fixed about 40 of them in the last 15 years.

    Can I use sytntite oil instead of SAE 40 for my Kawasaki 4 stoke air cooled v-twin?

    want longer life. Have 23 hp kawasaki engine air cooled.Can I use sytntite oil instead of SAE 40 for my Kawasaki 4 stoke air cooled v-twin?
    Amsoil makes several synthetic oils for lawn and garden applications. The high resistance to thermal and oxidative breakdown makes synthetics ideal for hard-working air-cooled engines such as yours. If your engine calls for an SAE 40, check out the Formula 4-Stroke 0W-40. Check this link: http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=14鈥?/a>

    How to tell if ur park avenue buick 93' is an engine oiled cooled or not?

    It will have oil cooler lines going to drivers side of the radiator.How to tell if ur park avenue buick 93' is an engine oiled cooled or not?
    Your question does not make sense. Try again.How to tell if ur park avenue buick 93' is an engine oiled cooled or not?
    as with all oiled cooled engines there won't b a water radiator. look for a smaller radiator looking part in the engine bay but that does not have any access to it ie a cap. thats the oil cooler, should have a pipe going in and out somewhere. thus ur car is oil cooled.
    your question doesn't make sense

    It is fresh water. We changed oil three times. how do u flush the cooling system.?

    Let the car cool down. Open the drain cock on the bottom of the radiator. Remove the thermostat and replace housing without the thermostat. Remove radiator cap and top hose from radiator. Run water through the block and radiator with a garden hose.

    My car broke down because there was no oil in it, now after the engine has cooled down, it still won't even tu

    Here's what happened. I was a doofus and didn't put any oil in my 1990 Toyota 4-Runner. I was driving home last night going at a pretty good clip (80 mph), when there was a cranking noise from the engine, and everything shut off. I put the car in neutral and coasted for awhile before I came to a stop at the side of the road. I popped the hood and there was smoke. I unscrewed the cap for the engine oil and smoke came billowing out from there. I checked the oil and it was bone dry. My friend took me to a gas station where I bought three bottles of 1040 oil. Poured them all in my car and went home and waited a couple hours for it to cool. I came back later last night and it still wouldn't start for me. It won't even turn over. Anyone have any idea what I'm dealing with here?My car broke down because there was no oil in it, now after the engine has cooled down, it still won't even tu
    You've destroyed your engine.





    First off, three bottles of 10w40 isn't even enough to get the oil onto the dipstick, so you were trying to fire up again with insufficient oil.





    Running at high speed generates a lot of heat in the engine; doing it without oil generates a tremendous amount of heat and even less mechanism to carry the heat away - the oil is pretty important in keeping stuff cool. Keeping metal parts away from each other is pretty important too, and without oil you've had some crucial bits weld each other together. That cranking sound was something breaking.





    Try this: Add more oil until the dipstick shows FULL. Then try to gently turn the engine over - put a wrench with a long handle on the big bolt at the front of the engine, the one on the center of the fan, and just try to turn the engine by hand. If you're incredibly lucky, then it seized from heat but relaxed again later. If that's the case, you may be able to turn the engine some. If you can do that, you may be able to start it.





    But I doubt it. Time to call Jasper and price up a new engine.


    My car broke down because there was no oil in it, now after the engine has cooled down, it still won't even tu
    hook up a breaker bar to the crank and try to turn it over by hand, if it won,t budge, you locked up the engine. if you dont have the money for a new engine, do this. drop the oil pan and loosen all the bearings and try to turn it over by hand using a breaker bar and then torque the bearings back up and put the oil pan back on. if your lucky, it should start.
    Well Mr Doofus, you most likely have incurred a very costly mistake. You cooked the rod bearings along with other major components which oil is there life blood. You best bet now is to either sale it as is, or invest some more money in a motor, the cheap route would be to pick up a motor from a salvage yard, or have a mechanic place a crate motor in it. Good luck.
    Sounds like a seized engine. An auto engineer may be able to re-bore the engine block but it may be more economical to to buy a second hand engine and just replace it.
    You might have ruined the engine.It will take a mechanic to really find out what happened.The pistons probably are frozen to the cylinder walls.
    You're probably dealing with a ruined engine.





    Chances are you may need to swap it out for a different one.
    you have a totally conked engine, a mechanic will have to sort you.
    Your motor locked up from lack of oil, and you are a doofus. But you learned a lesson. My son still kills motors this way.
    chances are you just got lucky that you made it home. sounds like you blew the engine and will need a new engine now.
    possibly seized motor, (pistons fused in the cylinders)
    sounds like a cracked block

    What does grey crankcase oil mean in an air-cooled VW engine?

    I'm trying to get an engine running that has been sitting for three years. When I drained the oil that had been sitting it was black with maybe 2 ounces of water in it. I ran it for a few minutes with fresh oil and a new filter. That oil has turned grey.What does grey crankcase oil mean in an air-cooled VW engine?
    Sounds more like magnesium dust from corrosion. The engine case is an aluminum/magnesium alloy. If it sat with condensation in it for a length of time you have a problem.You've seen how aluminum corrodes and instead of hard red rust like steel it turns to a powdery white dust. I'm afraid that is what you see in your oil. You may get lucky if you keep changing out the oil and filter. maybe add a cup full of Marvel Mystery Oil each time. Try this web site for more info.





    http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/What does grey crankcase oil mean in an air-cooled VW engine?
    You have still got condensation and sediment in the oil system. Run it for a short time to warm it up and then repeat the oil and filter change. Don't run any additives or chemical flushes through it. They would probably cause damage by blocking the oil passages. I have brought engines ';back to life'; and never needed to use them. Don't use the non-detergent oil as suggested by another. It would allow formation of deposits that you are already trying to get rid of.
    Sounds like an oil additive or ';Never Seize'; or ';Lubriplate'; was added to the oil before it was shut down. Some gumbo. I wouldn't worry about it though, considering it runs. That is all you really are interested in.


    Not a worry. And the moisture is common (more so on engines that have a few miles on them.) What filter? Most air cools just have a screen.





    You don't need any additives. Heck, they don't even need detergent oil as they are meant to run on straight weights SAE30 or SAE20(in the winter)
    it's still got water in it..add some motor flush and run it for a few minutes and drain again..
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